Monday, December 26, 2011

Boa Constrictor Care (Boa constrictor constrictor)

!±8± Boa Constrictor Care (Boa constrictor constrictor)

Boa constrictors have always been a popular pet snake. Similar to Burmese Pythons in that they are considered a 'friendly giant' of the snake world. Luckily though, they do not quite reach the size of Burmese Pythons. Boa constrictors usually average 7-9feet in length, females being the larger of the sizes. They have been known however to reach 14feet in length, a formidable force for such a large bodied snake. Many sub-species of Boa constrictors are now recognized, most of which are smaller locality variants and should also be considered as good pet snakes. These variations make a good alternative if space is an issue.

Housing

When keeping any snake as a pet, you generally want to be able to view the snake from the outside of its enclosure, in the most natural surroundings you can offer. This will be more aesthetically pleasing and also aid in the general condition of the snake. If the snake likes its surroundings, it will have a better feeding response and generally grow quicker. A larger vivarium also offers more interest to the snake's life, and by adding branches and other natural products you will enhance the quality of life the snake has, and stop it from becoming lethargic and overweight. Also, being stronger it should have more of a resistance to any viral infections or any other problems that it may encounter later in life.

For an adult Boa constrictor, a vivarium 2m Length x 0.9m Width x 1m Height is ample. These large constrictors are one of a few species which are generally not worried about the size of their enclosure. The more room you can provide; the better. Many keepers decide to dedicate a whole room to their beloved snake. Other keepers may decide to use a corner of a room as the back walls and ceiling of the enclosure, and simply build 2 front walls. This will cut down the costs of building and allow for a larger space for the boa. Juveniles should be offered a far smaller enclosure until you are confident they are comfortable with you, their surroundings and feed regularly.

Snake enclosures can be made from a number of materials. Most commonly used is a melamine coated wood which covers all sides except the front, which has glass sliding doors. Aquariums can also be used for juvenile Boa constrictors, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It is essential when thinking about what type of enclosure you use, you think about these 6 'SSSHHH' factors:

1) Safety - Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or any appliances held within?

2) Secure - Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?

3) Size - Will the enclosure be appropriately sized?

4) Heating - Is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature properly?

5) Humidity - Will the enclosure last well in humid conditions? Is there enough ventilation for the moisture to escape?

6) Hygienic - Will the enclosure build up a lot of bacteria in small cavities? Is it easy to clean?

By following the steps above, you can have a suitable enclosure made from a variety of materials.

Décor

Décor in your tank serves two purposes. First being extra cover for your snake and second, allowing for a more natural and pleasing appearance. When choosing décor, think about the safety of the snake. Make sure that whatever you decide to use, it is securely fixed and that no rocks, wood or anything heavy can fall and possibly injure, or even kill the snake. You must also make sure that everything used is parasite free. If anything has been picked up from outside, or has originally come from outside, such as cork bark, you should either boil it, or place the item in the oven at 200 degrees Fahrenheit for approximately 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, however others have been known to survive months in freezing conditions. Some parasites found in English conditions last winters in minus temperatures, so it is not entirely effective.

Once all your décor is parasite free, it is then safe to place inside your enclosure. As a general rule, if you can put pressure on an item to knock it down, a Boa constrictor is certainly capable of doing so. When positioning rocks or heavy objects, make sure they are completely secure. If it is still uneasy, screw them or use superglue to fix them securely. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: Do not place the item in the vivarium!

If you decide to go for an extra large enclosure, you must provide plenty of cover and hiding areas. A hiding place can be anything from a large tupperware box with a hole cut out to a naturalistic piece of cork bark. There are many brands of fake plants and décor you can use which is both safe for the animal and pleasing to the eye. Cork bark is available from almost any reptile pet shop in the UK, and can be ordered in if they do not have it in stock. This is excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing you must consider when thinking about the size of the vivarium, is the bigger you go, the more hiding areas you must provide. I recommend at least one hiding place per metre in length of the enclosure.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure; this is an accident waiting to happen. Believe me; removing sticky tape from any snake is no easy task!

Heating

Boa constrictors require a thermal gradient, meaning they must be allowed to move around the enclosure to find their required temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 88-92ºF while the cool end should be approximately 80-84ºF. During the night, the temperature should drop to a more constant overall temperature of 80-84º

In my opinion, the ideal way of heating a large Boa constrictor's enclosure is to use a large 250W Ceramic Heater with a reflector and safety grid so the snake cannot touch it. Ceramic heaters do not give off light and therefore in a vivarium you will need a form of lighting as well. A ceramic heater should be used in conjunction with a HabiStat Pulse Proportional Thermostat, which will stop the power reaching the heater as soon as the temperature goes above the setting, and turn back on as soon as it is too cool. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Power Plates, spot bulbs and heat mats are also ways of heating a vivarium. These all have their advantages and disadvantages, but in my opinion, none quite weigh out to be as good as ceramic heaters for large enclosures. Heat mats are not recommended at all for large snakes, if so, they should not be accessible to it.

Lighting

Boa constrictors are primarily nocturnal, meaning they venture out in the dark of night. This is when their main predators are sleeping, and their prey is awake. This is not to say though, that they never see the sun, or any form of lighting for that matter. They will often bask in the sun during the day in the wild, so lighting should be offered.

Having artificial light in a vivarium is aesthetically pleasing to the owner, and is a good addition to a snake's enclosure. They will use this as a photo-period, and their regular time clock will generally adjust to the settings on which you have your light set to.

They do not require any form of special lighting, such as a D3 Ultra-Violet light commonly used for diurnal species. An Arcadia Natural Sunlight Fluorescent Lamp is a good form of lighting. This comes in lengths of 12" up to 48" and I suggest you use the largest size able to fit inside your vivarium. In a room-sized enclosure, a few may be needed.

Humidity

Boa constrictors occur over much of Central and Northern South America and therefore are exposed to a high humidity. This should be replicated in captivity to aid to the general health and well-being of your snake. A 60-70% humidity range will allow to snake to slough it's skin properly and become less prone to any problems such as respiratory infections.

Feeding

Hatchlings should be offered fuzzy mice or rat pups, and as they grow the mice or rats should become larger. An adult Boa constrictor should be fed on large rats. One or two of these every 2-3 weeks is ample. Hatchlings should be fed on a regular basis, every 5-7 days is ideal. Their metabolic rate is very high and as they are growing, they need a lot more food to keep them going. The only exception when adult females should be fed more is when they need fattening up for breeding, or just after they have given birth. A gravid female should be fed double the normal amount for several weeks after she has given birth, and for as long as possible after ovulation. Snakes have the capability of building up a huge fat reserve, and become obese very easily. Taking the weight off however, is a much more difficult task. Obese snakes will not live nearly the length as a healthy snake would due to liver and kidney problems. If you are unsure about your snake's weight, check with a reptile veterinarian.


Boa Constrictor Care (Boa constrictor constrictor)

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Wednesday, November 9, 2011

How Big Can a Leopard Gecko Get?

!±8± How Big Can a Leopard Gecko Get?

Let us look at some factors which contribute to the development of your leopard gecko. They can grow to be really big but when in captivity the rules are different as the ability to move around, feed on amongst a number of distinct insects end. So they usually are at our mercy to be able to feed them properly hence their progress correlates to precisely how well they are being attend to.

When it comes towards the growth of your respective leopard gecko what you nourish them plays a incredibly critical element. Leopard geckos are strong feeders for essentially the most part. Their most frequent meals for them to eat in captivity are meal worms and crickets, they may be also identified to consume roaches along with other insects. Just before every feeding dust the insects using calcium and vitamin D3 natural powder. Place a dish with calcium powder in the container. In case you retain your own insects, they require meals as well like carrots squash along with other oats with grains. Try to make certain to feed your insects healthy meals simply because that will reflect on your gecko's health.

Leopard geckos tend to be special, particularly for reptile enthusiasts. They may be effortless to tend to. Make sure to follow guides, publications, along with internet sources whenever it comes to be able to tending for the gecko. You are able to apply a number of diverse approaches it's your decision in addition to your gecko's decision too.

When it comes to heating and also lighting, your leopard gecko needs some sort of regulated temperature thus a tank or perhaps an aquarium are usually much better acceptable for that. They require their personal warmth source for two main reasons, 1 reptiles happen to be cold blooded animals therefore they need to have their private warmth source 2 they also will need heat as a digestive support. They are originally from the very hot and also bumpy areas from the Middle East and regions of India where it in most cases hot. Their environment is usually range from 82 to 92 degrees Farrenheit. Though, not every family pet store sells a night heat cycle. A number of breeders employ radiant heat source such as light bulb with dimmer. You possibly can also use a heat supply below your aquarium similar to a warm pad as well as heat tape. Be sure to keep one part of the tank warmer than the other. You'll be able to utilize heat sources like heating rocks but at your own chance as they are able to bring about injury or perhaps death for your gecko.

Leopard gecko can expand to about 8 in. to even up to one foot in length. They could live as much as 25-year if you take good care of it and still have it seen by a professional who focuses primarily on reptiles. Females commonly expand to about nine in. although males however may perhaps develop to about 10 in. A number of males have giant genes that could help all of them develop to about 1 ft. long.

Male leopard geckos are usually territorial and will certainly attack each other when stored within the exact same area. Nonetheless females may be stored with one another or colonies. Only one male together with several females can be ample. A tank could be the finest location to keep your gecko for maximum seeing.

Make some pure dampness in the aquarium by placing a bowl, not way too deep since geckos are not fine swimmers, of normal water below the light. This facilitates all of them with the shedding process which is essential. If your bowl is very large in circumference place a stone within it for the leopard gecko to help stand on. Leopard geckos that are in the process of shedding delighted in hiding in damp, moist areas.


How Big Can a Leopard Gecko Get?

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Sunday, August 21, 2011

Albino Leopard Gecko - is different than other gecko care?

!±8± Albino Leopard Gecko - is different than other gecko care?

The maintenance of an albino leopard gecko is the same with other geckos. Leopards are easy to maintain, they are very docile and loving pets. They also have an array of colors makes them very impressive, come watch.

This is the way to take care of geckos, albino in particular by:

SIZE
The size of a door is 3 to 4 inches long, adult female geckos size 7 to 8 cm, while the male reaches 8 to 10 inches. Some of the men's giant geckos, up to a foot.

LIFESPAN
Typically, they live quite a long time with a life expectancy of 6-10 years, but a lot of male geckos live up to 10 to 20 years.

HOUSING
30 gallon aquarium - One or two leopards can be housed in a 20 A screen cover is necessary to ensure good ventilation and keep insects or other animals enter the cage. It will also prevent small children to prevent the gecko, which is dangerous for your pets. It will also inhibit the crickets jumpfrom the tank.

It houses the same size female geckos can be done, but not men who are sexually mature, they will be only chaos and struggle. Geckos can only place male and female together in an aquarium until it is only in the form of reproduction of 45 grams.

It 'is also useful to hide a field in the tank instead of damp moss or vermiculite to help shed Leopard properly. This setting can also lay their eggs, if used in breeding.

UNDERGROUND
A sandSubstrate can be used to treat an albino leopard gecko, but a careful precautions must be taken into account where this may be the preferred substrate for these the cause of the impaction leopard.

For a safer ground, the use of a newspaper, artificial grass, gravel or flat rock to use.

Gecko is used in a bathroom in one corner so it's usually better to do on site, without the whole area clean during the cleaning.

Lighting and temperature
The best way is warminguse a pad under the tank or tape. There are several variations of heat they need, but to ensure that the geckos on the rocks, which tend to overheat and cause burns to their skin.

The ideal temperature box hideout of 86 to 90 degrees Celsius at any time, while the air temperature to which the animal is above 73 degrees.

A low-watt light for maximum comfort and for the display of Leopard, and install it on top of the cage and leave it alone for 12 hours.Albino Leopard can be sensitive to the crack of dawn, but they do well as pets.

FOOD
Geckos prefer living insects and plants or vegetables. The best foods that can have them, grilled. Super worms or wax worms can be fed once a week, but not the pinky mice.

A nutritious food is better, "good load" crickets especially for a day before feeding it to your pet. Dusting the insect with vitamins and minerals to the crickets in a plastic bag and appropriateshake well to ensure that the insects are well coated.

This is just the basic steps are the albino leopard gecko care and are very important to keep them healthy.


Albino Leopard Gecko - is different than other gecko care?

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Wednesday, August 10, 2011

Surviving the 70s

!±8± Surviving the 70s

It's a miracle I lived through the '60s and '70s.

As if Richard Nixon, Vietnam, mutual assured destruction, and fashion really, really bad not been quite risky, I faced the daily threat of mass-market toys that could maim, wound and disfigure. Mattel? Expert? Hasbro? Wham? Endless fun with a pinch of mutilation thrown in for good measure. Children's toys of my youth has never made the cut today - but how much went back to my heart, though.

Toymy childhood - how I love you?

Let me count the ways.

The toxic:

In the 20 years spanning 1960-1979, nothing said FUN like toxic chemicals and fumes. The Bubble Jet, a fancy water pistol is driven bubble producing cyanide tablets, it was great recovery. If the solution is injected into a friend's eyes or mouth, or your chemical means wholesome entertainment. If you get bored of the toxic bubble fun, you can relax with a few shots from the fake cigarettesand blow (or inhale) some 'artificial chemical smoke. If smoking was not your thing, it was time for some Superelastic Bubble Wrap. When the smoke from the blob of plastic goo you want to accurately place the short term will not fry a few brain cells, essential to the psychedelic colors of the bubbles were ready to blow your mind. It was always the classic standby, the Chemistry Set, always full of toxic potential. "Hey Mix Mommmmm an experiment! (Ie stirring every damn ..Powder or in solution in the set together). "" This is the great Johnny. Just do not be late for dinner. Johnny? Johnny? What is this terrible smell? "

I find the intoxicating smell of burning flesh, once he had worked up a healthy buzz from snorting and puffing up some of the good things, it was time to get to the real economy. If you do not have a steel bar at 373 Kelvin, you were having fun. I think 'Iron Red Hot Poker' was not very marketable. Instead, they called a fun elementBurning wood kits. Designed to track the young artist with beautiful designs in the face of a smooth screen of virgin wood, we found much more fascinating and rewarding to see our toys sister was fuel. The fun lasted until we ran out of things to light, or burned to death one of our fingers. The Wood Burning Kit had the further advantage of this time a little 'more toxic fumes, a plus if the previous Headrush was calmed fun.

One of the most memorableToys from my youth had the potential to offer fun and burns the third grade. Creepy Crawlers can make your own rubber bugs and reptiles colored goo from the pressing of the liquid into a mold of metal and then placed in a heated bath of hot water amazing. The mixture of high voltage electricity, water, toxic goo and torrid heat was intoxicating. I can not remember what the hell we had with the rubber bugs, but makes sure was fun. If you're really adventurous,They have incredible edible version that the risks mentioned above with the inclusion of the final combined (presumably "edible") product, thereby providing a high risk toys twofer. What a bargain!

For girls there was always the classic Easy Bake Oven, which delivered the potential need for skin grafts only with the power of an incandescent bulb. But the brownies were really unwell, who helped you, thoughts of burns.

Finally, the real ambitious, there were children Estes rocket kits.He spent weeks carefully mounting the model rockets, inserting the real-solid-fuel engine, and then prepare carefully for your Rocketship Blastoff. Three weeks he worked in a few seconds your rocket blast off in the afterlife, usually are never seen again. After a few, we naturally go to the next logical step - the missiles on their side and bring them off. We were among the most popular guys in the neighborhood. Finally, we would also tireProblems with the rocket at all, and would strip the engines almost appliances (such as glass bottles Coca Cola), and the fire like this. Good clean fun American!

You put your eyes!

We damn near had, several times. At that time the federal government to turn idealism betweem very busy and corruption and the war in the dark corners of the world to discuss what the children were with the game to worry about. One of my primary school friends, Bonnie Higham,had one of his eyes dart thrown by a group of his brother. As a girl I remember elementary school, Bonnie was pretty hot, though a bit 'confusing for its beautiful blue glass eyes drift off unwanted see in one direction, while the others looked sharp right through you could be . If the loss of an eye was not good enough to play for you, you could head on the pole with the full brother of the Duel jarts, better known as "Lawn Darts' well-known risk factors. These bad boyswere large enough to do serious damage, and they were so tempting, usually immersed in adults with them. Add a little 'klutziness alcohol and adults, and one had a recipe for fun crazy, or tragedy, depending on your luck.

And, of course, we had the old S-standby mode, the Daisy BB gun. If we have records of squirrels, crows, and the windows of the neighbors are not tired like us, it was only a matter of time before they approached us. Lets face it. We saw it coming.

There were also otherless forboding weapons. Fli The paddle back was a personal favorite. He did a great weapon with a good tug of war at a distance, so be sure to have an advantage, you were punching the back of the head to decide to counterattack. It also provided the risk is hard to beat the ball in the face just when you're not careful, or break the rubber band, sending the bullet from God knows, is here, determined to break, a family heirloom, in any form. If one were to accept theThe hostility of a notch, you might call the red-eye ball in action. A modern bat, blunt teeth were hard nearly fatal when thrown with maximum speed. Finally, the preferred weapon in the arsenal of many childhood Johnny Reb Cannon, cannon balls hard plastic on the Damn Yankees was throwing almost frightening anger. I wish I had lived in a land of cotton.

I call your eyes and raise a blunt trauma head: It 'amazing that none of us, without losing our childhood traumaticBrain injury. Even the simplest of toys in my time had the potential to maim. One of my favorites was the boomerang. Ironically, even then people knew that the weapon was hunting boomerang in Australia, but you may still exist in your stocking at Christmas. It will take years to master the boomerang perfect launch, make her look fast and full, beautiful bow and start running again to you and their point of departure. It took only a few seconds to realize that he had no idea what to doon how to run to the head 90 mph. Run for your life!

We all remember joyous laughter of a pillow fight Slumber Party. So it was no wonder that marketers of time trying to hit on the memoirs of mist with capital Boppers stockings. They were the nostalgic memory of pillow fights past fades quickly through the head and shoulders with a few thunderous header from Brian Elkins, the middle child of big beat on the street. "Knock em Boppers Senseless" couldThere have been a more descriptive moniker.

Sometimes there was no need for anyone ever to feel severe trauma head. In the pre-rollerblade era, a common instrument of death known as Strap-On Skate could be detected in almost all the sidewalks in America. After class, you must apply the strap on your shoes or Keds Buster Browns, with your special 'skate key' to tighten up, she was in for the ride of your life. Everything usually went pretty well, until you happen to be a successRock or stick on the sidewalk, at which point all bets were off. The runners had a tendency simply to get interesting at some point. The only salvation was that the maximum speed, inline skates in on what had to raise a short walk normally. Fortunately, all children of that time he asked to wear their head protection for skating special. We called them "baseball caps".

Vehicles of death!:

If you go to death, do not drive, becausewith a very serious Bitchin 'wheels? This is my philosophy of life anyway. After the incident, filmed 10 years April 24, 1972 PBW (Pre-Big Wheel), have been robbed of the chance to sport a really elegant and functional. Unfortunately, our vehicles have been lame, and usually dangerous as hell. The most dangerous of all was the ominous-looking Skoota Skat. A set of four wheels, two red imprint plastic pedals, even Houdini could not escape his clutches successfully.Moreover, even if you manage to cross the street to the matter, without breaking the neck, seemed decidedly uncool to do so. Bummer.

Another classic transport those days was the Inch Worm Hasbro. The vehicle was completely harmless. But if you were spotted riding the thing ridiculous, your safety could not be guaranteed. It may take up to secondary school for your representative to recover. The only positive point was the inchworm catchy tune.

In fact, our selection of new racesduring the day were so woefully inadequate, we were forced to create our own. In its lowest form, this could mean a couple of cans of baked beans stilts and some string of laundry done. But my most memorable experience of traffic vehicle involved two childhood friends, twins, David and Eddie Reynolds. With plywood and nails (many of them), on top of a frame Radio Flyer wagon, we have built a monument for transport unrivaled to this day. We formed the site is like a bright lemon yellow paint themselves asthe final touch of glory. Cautiously has been moved to the top of the unit Larkspur, which will take place at the steepest point in our neighborhood. Eddie, that no one quickly to the top (though to be honest) has the good fortune of straw as our primary driver. He went into the car a lemon. The fateful countdown began, and with a gentle push, drove down the hill, gaining momentum as it went. Since our establishment has dropped down into the abyss, we suddenly realize our plan to get excited about, but it was a fatal mistake.She could not control radio flyer wagon. If the speed of the car hits 25 mph lemon, decided at 90 th round was in order. Plywood, nails and Eddie Reynolds decided, however, below Larkspur units. It was a grand finale. The lesson? We did not need dangerous toys. It 'was natural.

I both cheer and recoil in the typical activities of childhood diseases, then we embraced. When my brother turned 10, got together for a target bow and Christmas. We routinelyreal arrows shot at high speed past each ear. Hilarious, surprising, and ummmm .... Kind of silly in retrospect. I would never allow my children to do the same, but still wonder if there are some essential life safety education from their X-Box and Play Stations. I shared with you the dangers of my youth. The next time will delight you with stories of some of my favorite toys. Maybe if they're lucky, you can share your memories.


Surviving the 70s

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Saturday, August 6, 2011

Cat litter box ideas are ill or elderly

!±8± Cat litter box ideas are ill or elderly

Age is the great equalizer for us all, cats are no different. With increasing age of the urinary tract begins to fray and begin to deteriorate cats intellectual capacity. Occasionally, cats over 14 years will have confused and disoriented, unable to remember where the litter box is located. Sometimes the culprit is an infection of the urinary tract, leading to excessive urination. Whatever the cause, it is useful to a number of additional clean litter boxes, both for convenience and as adjunctive therapya precautionary step to minimize the chances of urinary tract infections.

When you move your cat with pride in the golden years, he or she should be a fair amount of special treatment. Given a senior discount card can not be an advantage, but perhaps, be that an extra litter box is probably the ultimate reward. Older cats may be too sick or weak to get to the bottom of the box, or a weak urinary bladder before release to find their way to throwbox. Arthritis is another bump in the road, making it difficult to step to the top of the window, or prevent them to squat properly.

As already said once a cat is the age of fourteen or fifteen years, is when the problems start to appear in the above rule. At this time, a litter box on every floor of the house. If the sides are too high, use your imagination to build a ramp, or cut a hole in the side of the litter. If your experienceCitizens can not properly cat squats and urine tends to be moved outside the litter box or on the wall instead of a newspaper or a plastic bag on the floor and adjacent wall. Secure it with tape or duck.

In summary, elderly cats need special care and they deserve it after all. In addition, many proud owners of cats faithful acceptance of a regime, including special dietary considerations and a combination of homeopathic natural remedy for their beloved cat urineTract work is better as long as possible. This natural homeopathic remedies are very safe and very often contain ingredients such as bearberry, which are the natural urinary tract tonics.


Cat litter box ideas are ill or elderly

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Wednesday, August 3, 2011

Children and snakes

!±8± Children and snakes

If you've ever had in pet stores then no doubt you saw a snake or two for sale. They are usually unhealthy, too expensive and not well maintained. That would have eliminated most of us on foot, without a second glance, but children are different. You see a snake, the snake and want. I speak from experience was at a time ", that" kid. Since then I have learned a lot of snakes in general, especially in terms of keeping them as pets.

A common denominatorof children and snakes is that they rarely work well together. At least not if you leave the snake in child care. Snakes (and most other reptiles) are completely different than any other animal. Their care needs are demanding, and there is very little margin for error in dealing with them. This does not mean that children do not have snakes as pets. In fact, you are very encouraging, but there are some realities you should consider.

1) and 'probable, as a parent or guardianPrimary custodian of the snake. That is not bad, but let's be honest. Children are impulsive and have a snake or simply "die!" Probably yesterday, before the day is possible. Not literally, but you get the idea. Be aware that the promise of where most children are, always take care of ... we also believe that, just as if you promise to eat their vegetables, or do homework. Your intentions are good, but then reality sets in.

2) The snakes are expensive. TheFirst you buy something like a ball python is relatively inexpensive (about $ 40 - $ 100), but then you have everything else.

a) Tank - These can easily run over $ 150.00, but if you're willing to spend some time trying to learn, is that you can build your own from a plastic tub for about $ 8.00

b) Basis - These are the things you have to thrive for the snake must:

- Heating Pads - $ 35.00 depending on size and where it is below the cost of heating the pool of around $ 20. There are alsoFlex Watt heat tape, which is slightly less expensive, but labor intensive.

- Hidden: to "hide" Just a place for the snake of all. You can buy at the pet store for a few dollars each or a butter churn old, cut to fit a hole in the side of the snake and use it. It is a huge effort, but small things add up.

- Thermometer / hygrometer combo, you want a digital with these probes. These can run about $ 12 to $ 15 for an Accu-Rite, Wal-Mart. Thestick to the cheap side of the tank types do not work. Remember, I said, before the needs of farming are accurate? This is an example. A flame can cause respiratory infections, poor diet, stress and lead. Low-range humidity measurement can lead to poor and incomplete sheds. So you need to invest in a good thermometer / hygrometer setup.

- Fences: must be big enough, the snake does not tip over. If you buy at the pet store, will cost more than it is worth. Be about $ 15.00 (or) Take

- Background: A bag of cypress mulch costs about $ 10 to $ 20 A better solution is to use old newspapers to the substrate. I never pay for it because I get to old newspapers from the restaurants. Avoid bright colors and prints, as these can be toxic to the snake.

- Thermostat: Here we go back to the reality of how the conditions are difficult for snakes. Temperature must be maintained at very precise. This is where the thermostat is a. To be clear these are not the$ 20.00 wall mount units you get from Wal-Mart. These are made specifically for reptiles, and allow you to control the heating under the tank. Expect to pay upwards of $ 100.00 for this.

- Power: Obviously a heating pad to keep running 24 / 7, you have to do, your bill will increase up to a certain point.

- Food: you need to eat. Expect to spend about $ 8 to $ 25 a month per line for food. Much will depend on how big the snake, what should beFood. Do not forget to go into the food chain to calculate the costs.

So now the snake, which costs $ 40.00, the cost signficantly more. Before you even walk out the door you are looking at another $ 200.00 in supplies alone. Not to mention the ongoing costs of care on a daily basis. We did not even consider what would happen if the veterinarian is necessary. Veterinarians who specialize in reptiles have one thing in common with doctors who specialize in heart problems. Both charge a lot more"normal" because of their veterinary expertise.

3) Children are raw. You can not leave a child alone, and a snake. Some people will tell you, is to protect the child, but 99.999999% of the cases is the reason to protect the snake from the child.

4) The children are fast. Snakes do not like fast. They feel threatened by it. We will try to escape and unless rail against things that they feel threatened by itself. Having experienced my share of snake bites over the years, I can tell you thatalways something of a snake is, for most adults do not forget. Imagine a child to something, because the snake felt like had to defend itself.

All this does for you depends, to discourage a snake for your child. In fact, very advisable to do just that as they do wonderful pets. To be aware of parent / guardian only, which runs, in contrast to all conventional PET, the majority of the people and take responsibility and commitment that the majority of children simply should not be so.


Children and snakes

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Monday, August 1, 2011

Corn Snake Care (Pituophis guttatus guttatus)

!±8± Corn Snake Care (Pituophis guttatus guttatus)

Corn snakes are the most widely produced snake in captivity, and for good reason. They are docile, suit well captivity, and a reasonable size, among other things. They are certainly a good beginner snake, possibly the best. In the pages that follow will take possession through the various corn snakes factors.

Housing

When keeping a snake as a pet, you usually want to be able to see the snake from the outside of the housing inthe natural environment can offer. This is more aesthetically appealing and also to help the general conditions of the serpent. If the snake likes its surroundings, there is a better diet and grow more quickly in response to the rule. A large container also has a major interest for the life of the corn snake, and with the addition of branches and other natural products that improve the quality of life of the snake, and stops, it may not lethargic and overweight. It should also be strongerhave more resistance to any viral infections or other problems that may occur later in life.

For an adult corn snake, a length of 90 cm x 45cm wide x 45cm nursery height is sufficient. Contrary to popular opinion and propaganda from various activists, you can actually too big for an enclosure for corn snakes. The reason for this is that snakes are very prone to stress and too many homes that can be frightening. Make sure you are in nature, theyconstantly hiding from predators, if they feel safe in the dark of night you dare to hunt for food. Return soon as they find their food, are for the safety of their safe hiding place until the next time. Some species will not even dare to their prey, but sit and wait for it to come together. You can also leave their den to change their skin or finding a partner at certain times of the year. Many individual snakes feel verycomfortable in captivity, although this usually comes with age and a lot of handling. Snakes like these often flourish in a larger container than usual.

Snake enclosures can be manufactured from a variety of materials. The most commonly used is a wood veneer, which covers all sides except the front, which has sliding glass doors. Aquariums can also be used, although a specialist lid should be bought or made rather than the original aquarium lid. It 'important when you think about whatUse protection, think about these 6 'SSSHHH "factors:

1) Safety - Can the snake or owner injure itself from the enclosure or devices in place?

2) Secure - Can the snake escape through any small hole or cavity?

3) Size - The enclosure be appropriately sized?

4) Heating - is the enclosure able to regulate the temperature properly?

5) Humidity - The last fence well in wet conditions? There is enough ventilationMoisture to escape?

6) Hygienic - The housing build a lot of bacteria in small cavities? It 'easy to clean?

With the above steps, you can create a container suitable for a variety of materials.

Furniture

Decor in the tank serves two purposes. First, supplemental coverage for the serpent and the second, for a natural appearance and pleasant. To consider when choosing the device through the security line. Make sure that everythingdecide to use, is securely fastened and that no heavy stones, wood or anything that can fall and possibly injure or even kill the snake. You must also ensure that all the parasites used free of charge. If something was taken from outside or were originally from outside, such as cork come, you should either boil or place the item in the oven to 200 degrees Fahrenheit for about 30 minutes. Freezing works for some parasites, but others are known to survive monthsFrost. Some parasites found in English conditions last winter at temperatures less, so it is not very effective.

Once all the equipment is free of parasites, it is then safe to place your chassis. As a general rule, if you print an item, along with breaking down a fully grown corn snake is able to do so. Certainly in positioning rocks or heavy objects that are totally safe. If it is still uncomfortable, screws or glue used to fixsafe. If it is not possible, the rule is simple: place the item in the nursery!

If you want to go for a large enclosure, you must provide lots of cover and hiding areas. A cache can be anything from an ice bath with a hole in a piece of natural cork can be cut. There are many brands of fake plants and decorations that you use is quite safe and comfortable for the animal to the eye. Cork is used by almost all reptile pet store in the United Kingdom,and can be ordered, if you do not have in stock. This is an excellent cover for any reptile and is 100% natural. One thing is when you think the size of the nursery is the largest one goes, the more hidden areas that need to distribute. I recommend at least one hiding place per foot of length of the body.

NOTE: Never use sticky tape in an enclosure, it is an accident happens. Believe me, the removal of the tape is not simply by a snakeTask!

Heating

Corn snakes require a thermal gradient, ie, must be allowed to move the container to find the desired temperature. The hot end of the enclosure should be 86-88 º C, while the cool end should be around 74-76 º C. During the night the temperature should be at a more constant temperature of 74-78 ° overall decline

In my opinion, use the ideal way of heating a dwelling to a corn snake Power Plate. This is a small square thinFlat, about 25 mm thick which is screwed into the top of the nursery. It does not need to be protected because there is no way to catch a snake on it. It 'almost invisible to the eye as it is only on the ceiling of the nursery. The brand is available only in the United Kingdom HabiStat reptile heater, which is 75 watts and is long enough for everyone up to 4ft nursery and possibly larger. It produces no light and therefore in a nursery you will need some form of lighting as well. A Power PlateProportional thermostat must be used, which stops the power to reach the power plate as soon as the temperature exceeds your setting and switch when it is too cool, in combination with a pulse HabiStat. This is one of the most accurate thermostats on the market today.

Ceramic heaters, spot bulbs and heating mats are also ways of heating a nursery. These all have their pros and cons, but in my opinion, not quite as good as a power weightPlate.

Lighting

Corn snakes are primarily nocturnal, meaning that venture into the dark of night. This is when their main enemies to sleep, and their prey is awake. This does not mean, however, say they never see the sun, and any type of lighting for that matter.

Having artificial light in a nursery is aesthetically to the owner, and is a good supplement for a corn snake housing. Not to use this as a photo-period, and adjust their clock isas a rule, the settings where you put the light to fit.

You do not need a special form of illumination, used as D3 ultraviolet light commonly used for diurnal species. A natural sunlight lamp Arcadia has a good form of lighting. This is available in lengths from 12 "to 48" and I suggest you use the largest size able to be in the terrarium.

Humidity

Corn snakes are in the southern states of North-east, where the humidity can be foundquite high. It 'important not to be critical humidity with this species, but a general 40-60% humidity should be offered. This is particularly important when the snake approaches the bottom, when a rate higher moisture, helps them to make the skin properly.

Nutrition

Young animals should be offered pinky mice, and how they grow the mice should become larger. A corn snake should be fed adult mice or small weaner rats. Kittens should be fed aRegularly every 4-5 days is ideal. The metabolic rate is very high and as they grow, they need food more, so they can go. Adult corn snakes need to eat once every 2 weeks on 2 large mice. The only exception, when it should be supplied longer gets them out of hibernation, they get in the state for breeding and then, fattening women to produce eggs. An egg-laying females should be fed more often than normal, once a week on 2 large mice.


Corn Snake Care (Pituophis guttatus guttatus)

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Thursday, July 28, 2011

Where to start Building a Snake Cage back?

!±8± Where to start Building a Snake Cage back?

When I made my first cage my wife Cheryl came into the stable and asked me what I did. I groaned and mumbled something "building snake cage", while sincerely trying to put a little 'small details or in an annoying screw (I do not know which one), twisted and turned on the eye in the house - I believe, shook his head and perhaps rolling his eyes.

However, I wanted to make a good cage. I already had one, but it was too small when Idivided into two sections by a wooden partition in between. Cut in the middle of the cage and was close enough to the ground to avoid the interaction, while the space enough to slide a heat mat. There are about 1 / 2 to 2 / 3 of the cage, both sides of the center.

I decided to do it that way was less than two cages and two small children still pythons, just graduated from the plastic container. (When I inserted the plastic container that Ismall terracotta plant for their skin. I cut a little 'off the side of the base to start - this is a good suggestion for adolescents and young snakes and lizards)

I stayed two carpet pythons youth in this cage, one on each side, but because they grew up I knew that I needed to get another cage.

So I did some research and with a little help from pet shops and some internet research I could come up with what I thought was a snake cage, simple plan.

A snake cage designthat:

- It 'was easy to do

- He has been deeply

- It seemed good to

- If appropriate thermal properties

- If an easy access

- It 'been with lock

- It 'been easy to maintain.

I think I should have a little 'back and tell you how I made my first snake cage. Two young snakes are about to move from their little plastic cages graduate, I will need accommodation. At first I thought that I had two snake cages with two sets of mats, thermostats (I know, there areAlternatives), illumination and twice the amount of materials.

So I decided, after several graphs and experience to make a cage and divide it into two halves. I had to heat on both sides. I put a partition in the cage. It 'was close enough to Earth to prevent the snake goes under Flexiwatt still high enough to slide in electric stove.

I also have the divider so that it fitted exactly kept in cages, but instead of screws. These screws can thenremoved if I wanted to order a bigger cage and build a second cage.

I have a lot of bugs with this cage.

The front was made of glass, but was appropriate and not push or move. There were two hinged lid on top, one on each side. Since I was inexperienced, I did not see that his was a bad design. I soon discovered that it was. I would have done at least one port on the front can slip or fall down. The upper gate was a good idea, but not only for themselves.

I decided to make theMy new cage door on a drop-down door for a number of reasons.

In the first place was to facilitate. I did not push the door and a snake on the other hand, as snakes do not move very quickly out of the cage. If you are playful dragons or reptiles, it is better to have a sliding door or two drop-down or, alternatively, a combination that you have a drop down door on the front with a folding roof top. This allows easy access from above to get the reptiles and even simpleFront access for cleaning and accessorizing.

Folding doors are the easiest to do and forgive, especially in plexiglass. Drop down and glass sliding doors require a little more effort and time. If you have limited space, a sliding door is much more satisfying. All my cages have sliding doors below, but this is a personal decision.

When I had carpet pythons, I do not need to have a UV light - it is usually possible to use supplements to provide allExtra diets with snakes. If I wanted, in a UV light for a lizard cage in the first reptile, I said that I would have some difficulty because the folding roof and solid front would make the angle of access if there is a slight difficulty. I had actually deleted the middle of the roof and it was not easy on the back of the roof of the cage. I missed something, the thought at the time - the light should be installed on the same level as half of the roof.

Ialso chose to make my own mats Watt Flex. My first business was too hot pad and buckle one of my cages of plastic and the wood was. I had to throw away. Following the instructions, you should adjust and does not require a thermostat. It did not work. So I decided to make my personal pad and connect with a thermostat. No problem so far and the results are much better.

The carpet, I have holes in the back of the cage and removed a snakeOld power cord. I put a plug that I bought from the hardware and attached to the end and I soldered the other ends to the carpet. I wanted to use a plug so I could pass the cable through a small hole in the back of the wire cage. I wanted the hole is small enough to prevent an escape, even small snakes.

The welding was a bit 'difficult, because the welder was not renewed (I saw that and it works beautifully restored now - you can understand howrenew your soldering iron in my book "How to build reptile house.")

I also drill a small hole in the back of the cage for the spacecraft, which sat on top of the heat pad. I put down the carpet with tape, but was used for double-sided tape or clear tape, as better and keeps longer.

You can set the heating pad on the base and then put a thin layer over the top or something similar. I have yet to try this method. I have seen snake cages, whereTiles were glued and placed over the heating pad, after applying a layer of glue or similar substance. I use cheap vinyl on the carpet, since it is easy to clean, and have the paper or other substrates on top of that again.

Melamine is also a good base, because it is easy to wash. Silicon must be placed at the edges to prevent water leaks and joints, but there's a trick for a smooth silicone.

Positioning of the lights in the snake cagerelatively simple. I decided on-line command, each new light, so you can check out the cage, without any finding by the bone or a switch to scrounge a panel. I have all these self-timer using.

I have a pretty good selection of tools in my shed, but I do not really need much to make the cages. I think for most people, the cutting of timber space is one of the biggest problems. There are ways around this so that the construction of the cagerelatively simple (this could, in the book "How to Build Reptile houses" to find).

I have a lot of looking around for different cages, the best material in order to induce them to build from. I built with MDF. I use it for a number of reasons.

- It has good thermal properties

- It 'easy to use

- It 'well painted

- It 'easy to sand

- It is easy to buckle

- You can use relatively thin (2.1 ") of material does not make it workdifficult

You have to cut a little 'cautious, and I would advise wearing a mask. It can be very dusty.

You must also be some 'careful to put the screws. Put them in too hard, and give the hole. Not held correctly.

I can not imagine what a snake or other reptile cage made of pine or cedar. These materials can be dangerous reptiles. Some pieces of pine for the design is good, but not the whole cage.

Another good material is plywood. I do not use primarilybecause it can be chipped. Looks good, but when you are finished with a coating of the wood a light coat.

I also painted my cages (spray paint gives a beautiful surface). I let it dry for about a week before I put the animals there. This is to ensure that the color has time to heal and that the amount of water released enough to want to be a threat to the snakes. You can pop your head into the cage after 4 or 5 days and the smell inside the cage. When the paint odorsalmost disappeared, the snake or lizard cage to put the animals in

After painting, it's just a matter of adding locks, door holders and accessories such as climbing branches, rocks, hides, water dishes, fake rocks and all that fancy.

My children pythons, blue tongue lizards, bearded dragons and now live happily in their respective habitats.

Good luck.


Where to start Building a Snake Cage back?

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